I stayed around the corner from Raffles London at the OWO, and every day, I walked down Whitehall, and past the hotel. Formerly the Old War Office (OWO) and home to Britain’s Ministry of Defence, I wondered what secrets lay inside the imposing 1906 Edwardian Baroque building.
Opened in September 2023, this redevelopment of the Grade II* listed building took eight years and well over $1 billion. The result is the 120 room Raffles London, the first property in the UK for Raffles Hotels & Resorts, and 85 private residences.
My budget didn’t stretch to an overnight stay at Raffles at OWO (rooms start at £1,100 per night). If your budget allows, you can stay in a room where Winston Churchill had his office for three years (1919-1921).
Afternoon tea and a history lesson
I had the pleasure of afternoon tea in the Drawing Room. I also had the pleasure of a bonus history lesson from Benedict Kershaw, a Raffles Heritage Ambassador. His passion for the building’s stories and for its transformation was palpable and infectious.
Sitting in the stately Drawing Room, I felt the presence of the thousands of people who worked here – 6,000 during WWI alone. Reimagined with contemporary furnishings, the architectural details have been preserved. The plaster is original as is the timber panelling and fireplace.
Through four mahogany sash windows, the Drawing Room overlooks Whitehall and directly looks across to the mounted Household Cavalry Guards guarding the official entrance to Buckingham Palace.
There is seating for about fifty people on leather Chesterfield couches, leather tub chairs and velvet chairs. The room is all shades of brown, mustard and dark red with distinctive chandeliers. Soft light emanates from brass lamps and wall sconces. Plump cushions, plush carpet, bountiful floral arrangements and a pianist playing a Grand Piano complete the elegant ambience.
Executive Pastry Chef, Dale DeSimone came to my table to talk about the “Secrets and Spies” afternoon tea which has just launched and which is planned to run until Christmas. When Raffles London opened, they started by offering a traditional afternoon tea but the team also started thinking about an afternoon tea which could share a bit of history and honour some of the inspirational people (particularly some of the women) who had worked for or with the OWO. Dale is justifiably proud of what his team has produced.
I chose my tea blend from the tea menu. The waiter showed me the looseleaf tea, invited me to smell the fragrance and then spooned it into a china pot. He set up a tea timer (a first for me!) and left me with a silver strainer.
An Amuse Bouche followed, a bite-sized mouthful of freshness. Refillable sandwiches came next – delicate, fresh and flavourful.
By design, the desserts are the show-stoppers here. There were the usual scones with strawberry jam and clotted cream but there were also bite-sized cakes to honour four female spies and a signature “watch” cake.
Spy cakes
The four spy cakes are named Christine, Virginia, Odette and Vera and are a tribute to the female spies who took their orders from the OWO during WWII. The story behind each female spy has also inspired ingredients in each cake.
Maria Krystyna Janina Skarbek, also known as Christine Granville (1908-1952), for example, was a Polish spy during WWII. Her cake is made with strawberry, vanilla and ginger. It is said that Ian Fleming used Christine as inspiration for his James Bond character, Vesper Lynd, in “Casino Royale.”
All the cakes are delicious, dainty works of art but my personal favourite was the Odette – it was an explosion in my mouth of fresh, light sweetness.
The signature Cake – “Time to Spy” – is made to look like a legendary WWII GSTP pocket watch and draws inspiration from the iconic A-11 wristwatch. Both are referred to as the watch that won the War.
The pocket watch was used by spies in WWII and to assist with escape if the spies were caught. Some versions had a secret, rear compartment to house microfilm or a camera. Incredibly, the cake captures both the watch face and the rear camera lens!
During WWII, the A-11 wristwatch was essential military issue. It helped the Allies win WWII by allowing the Air Force, Navy and Marines to co-ordinate their military plan.
Leaving with a full belly and a full heart
I left the Drawing Room and passed the magnificent staircase upon which Churchill gave speeches during WWII. I passed the enormous arrangements of multi-coloured hydrangeas and I walked onto historic Whitehall through the heavy mahogany doors. I was full of delicious food and stories of people who have walked this very path before me. Satiated, happy and grateful.
Raffles London has reincarnated this building, where the past can be long remembered and honoured.
Afternoon tea is served daily in the Drawing Room from 12.00 pm – 5.30 pm. The Secrets & Spies Afternoon Tea (starting at £85 per person) will likely run until Christmas. Book via the Raffles London website, here. There’s also a special Secrets & Spies Children’s Menu.
What’s a Grade II* building?
Grade II* buildings are particularly important buildings in England of more than special interest. Around 5.8% of listed buildings are Grade II*
