In Puglia, Italy’s southern region beloved for its port and hilly whitewashed hamlets, conical-shaped Trulli homes, rugged Mediterranean coastline, and baroque architecture, I pile into the van with the others. I am eager to meet everyone and learn their stories while on this group cycling adventure—my very first—and already I’m asking oodles of questions to try and suss out who the experienced riders are so I can absorb as much as possible this week.
Truth be told, I’m wide-eyed and nervous.
As a travel writer, I’ve been sojourning all over the globe in diverse ecosystems throughout the spring and summer on active adventures—hiking in the French alps, Scottish Highlands, Montana’s Glacier National Park and on Alaska’s Fox Island; backpacking through the desert in Death Valley National Park as well as Michigan’s Upper Peninsula; and running on the outdoor track every morning while on a week-long cruise in the Riviera.
When home, I regularly practiced yoga and got on my bike as much as possible. Finding roads with elevation in Chicagoland, the flattest of American cities, proved to be a challenge.
The Puglia Bike Tour, which journeys over olive tree-strewn land between two seas, is a seven-day romp through farming towns and small villages, which includes a total of 367 miles of cycling with 16,319 feet of elevation. Had I done enough to prepare for this massive effort with A’qto, curators of some of the best cycling expeditions in Italy?
New to clipless pedals, lightweight road bikes with super skinny tyres, an intricate gear and shifting system, and skintight cycling kits, I felt like a fish out of water at the outset. I quickly discovered that the wheelers on this journey were experienced veteran riders. This was undeniably my first rodeo, and I was the lone green cowgirl snapping into my steed.
When I ask the woman next to me how long she had been a cyclist, she pulls out her phone and shows me hospital pictures from her last trip with a different company, where she had a horrific accident verging on the macabre. She flipped her bike and cracked her jaw, literally skinning herself down one side from head to toe.
The first day of riding commences, and when we face steep hill after hill, I struggle to keep up with the pack. I pop a chain, do my best to figure out how to shift gears without losing momentum on this bike that is much fancier than the one I have at home, and summon the grit that is hiding under the panic. One woman was behind me and then I see her pass me in the support van, with her bicycle attached to the roof. Now, it’s just me and the sweeper, Sergio, a lovely and skilled Italian guide who is kind and supportive and shouts “Andiamo” (let’s go) when I lag. When I finally reach the Essenza Relais, an elegant property in Cisternino overlooking the Itria Valley, I’m grateful to have finished, proud even, and a wee bit apprehensive for what the week ahead will bring.
But here’s what makes A’qto different. I had the ability to join the non-riding program as well to not only indulge in a much needed break off the bike, but also, to take part in well planned activities and cultural excursions. I explored the historic town of Alberobello, well known for its whitewashed huts with conical roofs; jumped off a boat and swam near Gallipoli; and hiked over rugged coastal terrain to reach the stone Punta Palascia Lighthouse in Capo d’Otranto, the easternmost point in Italy at the sparkling mouth of the Adriatic Sea.
The week flew by, with adventures on and off the bike, nightly aperitivos, and indelible dinners in the most enchanting villages. We picked and ate figs while on rides; tasted extra virgin olive oil at Masseria Brancati, home to an underground mill that dates back to the Messapian era as well as centuries-old olive trees; and stayed in elegant havens like Relais Monastero Santa Teresa, a Baronial palace turned monastery turned luxury hotel in the historic village of Nardò, Salento.
The owners of A’qto, Damian Hancock and Nancy De Losa have put their stamp on the tours from start to finish. In a world where the culture is increasingly moving toward AI to handle administrative tasks, these two are answering emails and chat pop-ups directly. Damian leads the cycling portion of every tour, with two other fantastic local guides— Sergio and his highly capable wife Silvia in this case, while Nancy takes care of the non-riding program. Everything, from the wine pairings at dinner to the family-owned accommodations to the specific cycling routes, is chosen by this power duo and you can’t help but feel like you’re in good hands.
By the end, I felt like I had made real connections with the others, including Silvia, who tugged at her ear and told me the massive climbs were “just little bumps”. I learned more about road cycling than I could have ever imagined—did you know that there is a cyclist “code”? I am now more prepared should I decide to join a future tour. The best part? It won’t be my first rodeo next time.
The author of this article was hosted by A’qto Cycling for a complimentary experience. All opinions expressed are based on the author’s personal experience.
