When you think of South Yarra dining institutions, you might picture French brasseries, tables spilling out onto the streets, and a scene designed for people-watching. You don’t necessarily think of a subterranean restaurant hidden away beneath one of the suburb’s most prominent intersections. But that’s precisely where you’ll find Yūgen Dining – below the corner of Chapel Street and Toorak Road.
I’m a creature of habit when it comes to my dining experiences – when I find a place I love, I’ll go back again and again – so when I booked my stay at The Lyall Hotel, obviously, I was going to book dinner down the road at one of my favourite restaurants, Yūgen.
I took a friend along who is French, previously lived in Paris & New York, and has worked in hospitality for over 20 years, so while I won’t say she’s hard to please, she certainly knows a beautiful restaurant and impeccable service when she finds it.
An Arrival That Sets the Scene
Walking in, Sophie was shocked that she had passed this building countless times without realising such a beautiful space was hidden below. From the moment you step inside, Yūgen feels like an experience, not just a restaurant.
Upon arrival at the entrance on Chapel Street, you’re greeted by the hosts in the tea bar upstairs before being ushered into a glass elevator that descends into an entirely different world. A darkened hallway leads into a breathtaking 85-seat dining room, where six-metre-high ceilings and a truly stunning chandelier by artist Jennifer Conroy Smith dramatically set the tone. It’s a space that feels grand but welcoming – a cross between a luxurious underground cave, and a party at Gatsby’s house.
Designed by Architects EAT, Yūgen’s interiors took three years to perfect. The design draws inspiration from ‘Godia,’ the five elements of Japanese culture: earth (chi), water (sui), fire (ka), wind (fu), and void (ku). These elements come to life through a mix of raw concrete walls, natural stone finishes, and cracked bluestone floors, balanced with plush velvet seating, rich walnut timber, and atmospheric lighting that sets a warm, sexy vibe.
Even a trip to the bathroom at Yūgen is an experience in itself, with colour, texture, and lighting creating a sensory journey. As you ascend the stairs back into the restaurant, don’t forget to pause – looking down at the chandelier and striking bar is one of the most Instagram-worthy moments of the night.
An Experience Worth Repeating
This was my fourth visit to Yūgen, and the food, the service, and the ambience have been flawless every time – even the time my partner and I missed our flight to Melbourne, along with our reservation and babysitter, and when I called to cancel on a busy Saturday night the team couldn’t have been more accommodating. They moved our booking to the following night and insisted we could bring Elsie along. Miraculously, she slept through the entire meal, much to the relief of the young couple on a date seated next to us, who had initially given us a wary side-eye upon our arrival with a pram (only to later lean over and compliment us on how well-behaved she was!).
Back to my latest dining experience, sans baby on a girls’ night out with a friend who loves food as much as I do, and my gosh did we indulge! Weeks later, as I write this, I’m still dreaming of the Prawn Toast Chinese doughnut with chilli amazu. Yūgen is a true celebration of Modern Asian cuisine, helmed by LK Hospitality Culinary Director Stephen Nairn.
We delightedly worked our way through much of the menu, eating Grilled Edamame with spring onion oil & shichimi, Sydney Rock Oysters with ginger, soy and shio kombu, the Prawn Toast I already drooled over, Wagyu Beef Tataki with Davidson plum, bonito & quail egg, Kingfish Sashimi with onion ponzu, kimchi sesame & charred spring onion, Wood Grilled John Dory with anchovy sambai & brown butter, Shimo MBS 7-8 Sirloin, accompanied by Leaf Salad with green mango, sesame & lime, Fried Eggplant with bonito ponzu & itogaki, and the Yugen Special Fried Rice with xo, barbecue pork, prawn & spring onion.
A Drinks Menu as Impressive as the Six-Metre High Bar
We paired our exquisite meal with a selection of drinks curated for us by the passionate and knowledgeable staff from their extensive offering. We started with a textural Hughs & Hughes Pinot Gris, followed by sake tastings where we were guided through the rich history of sake in Japan and its modern resurgence among younger generations.
I love ending a nice dinner with either a Negroni or whisky nightcap, and on this occasion, I figured, why choose? While it’s not on the menu, the team are always happy to whip up a classic Negroni, and do an exceptional job. We finished our evening sitting at the bar talking Japanese Whisky with Alejandro, who guided me through the menu to select The Hakushu Distiller’s Reserve from Yamanashi. The perfect end to a flawless night out. Needless to say, the French critic was impressed, and yes, I will be back for a fifth time.
The author of this article was hosted by Yūgen Dining for a complimentary dining experience. All opinions expressed are based on the author’s personal experience.
